Rock Climbing Equipment | Choosing Rock Climbing Quickdraws

Choosing Rock Climbing Quickdraws

Quickdraws form the link between the wall and your rope. When you fall their proper use ensures your safety. In this article, I’ll go over the features of quickdraws and help you choose the ones that are right for you. Quickdraws consist of two carabiners connected by a sling.

Quickdraw Features

Carabiner Gate Type

The type of gate on carabiners makes a big difference in quickdraws. There are three major types of carabiner gates: basic straight gate, bent gate and wire gate. Straight gate carabiners are the most basic style and least expensive. Bent gate carabiners are bent so that they are easier to clip the rope into. They tend to be a little more expensive than carabiners with standard straight gates. Wire gate carabiners are the most expensive type, but make the lightest carabiners. They are very easy to clip and are surprisingly even stronger than the other carabiner gates. I recommend them unless you don’t want to spend the extra money.

Note: some quickdraws come with a straight gate carabiner on one side of the sling and a bent gate on the other side. When you use those, make sure to clip the straight gate into the bolt or protection on the wall so you can clip the rope into the easier bent gate.

Straight Gate Carabiner

Bent Gate Carabiner

Wire Gate Carabiner
Sling Length

The length of sling between the two carabiners affects how much rope drag can occur on a route that traverses. The longer the sling, the more traversing allowed before rope drag will increase. Standard quickdraw lengths are between 10 and 20 centimeters. For sport climbing, I prefer shorter slings since they are lighter and you can always take the carabiners off the short sling and put them on long slings for trad climbing.
Sling Width

Newer quickdraws often come with narrow slings that are lighter than wider ones, but just as strong. I prefer the narrow ones, but the wide ones may last longer and also tend to not twist, which can be annoying.

Wide Sling on Petzl Spirit

Narrow Sling on Black Diamond Quicksilver
Rubber Sheath

All quickdraws should have this feature: a rubber sheath on the carabiner meant for clipping the rope into. The sheath will keep the carabiner from turning upside down or shifting around while you clip the rope into it. Note that if you make alpine quickdraws from your own slings then you won’t have this feature and should be prepared to spend a little more time clipping in.
Overall Weight

When making a final decision on which quickdraws to buy, make sure to take weight into consideration. Saving a pound or two can make the difference if you are pushing yourself on a tough route. Each quickdraw can weigh between 70 and 120 grams, which is a big range in total weight when you are carrying 10-20 of them.

How many to Buy

A minimum set of quickdraws is 12. I prefer to have 15-20 and it really depends on where you will be climbing. I have been on long sport pitches in El Potrero Chico in Mexico with 19 bolts on the pitch, while some sport routes at Red Rocks, Nevada have only 4. Remember to keep 2 extra quickdraws or slings for the top of the climb. Often if you buy a set of 6 or more of them you can get a discount.

My Picks

The Wild Country Helium’s are so light that they should be looked at if price isn’t a major consideration. And the Petzl Spirit’s are a solid, but pricey, all-around quickdraw. Also, check out the Black Diamond Quicksilver’s for a more economical quickdraw.